Kamptal DACGrüner Veltliner Ried Käferberg 1ÖTW 2020

Herbs, tobacco, wet rocks, and dark spice – the fruit is initially hidden, but that should not be disturbing. The Käferberg is a marathon runner and doesn’t shoot all its ammunition right at the start. In any case, there is indeed a trace of exotic fruit on the palate even if it is still dominated by spice and minerals. The structure is tightly woven, concentrated and vibrant. A moderate yet firm spine of acid carries the flavours elegantly from the tip of the tongue through the entire length of the palate.

The Käferberg is a monument built on a foundation of gneiss, mica, and amphibolite. Many of the vines have thrust their roots several metres deep under the surface with some even anchored in volcanic rock. Many of the vines are over 50 years old and the yields are low with corresponding concentration of flavour. Over the meagre rock, a bit of loess has collected in some patches and the layer of humus on the surface is slowly accumulating and becoming increasingly vital and green with vegetation. The site faces south towards Italy, but the warmth is often interrupted by cool winds.

The wine is fermented spontaneously and the time spent on the lees is adjusted each year to fit the vintage. Maturation takes place in large, used, wooden casks. It enters the market first in the September in the year following the harvest – usually with the vintner’s request to allow the wine more time to develop in the bottle.